Wednesday, October 19, 2011

Almost there

It's been a very busy and stressful few weeks. This year's halloween costumes are almost finished. Here's the breakdown with reference pictures, and progress shots if I have them:
Harley Quinn: 100% complete
Shoe covers, over a pair of pointy ballet flats



Joker: Still needs to be hemmed, but it won't be worn this year :(


Robin: 100% complete

Ivy: about 80% complete. The second layer of leaves needs to be sewn to the corset, and a few leaves sewn to the bodysuit
Corset, most leaves sewn



American McGee's Alice London dress: 100% complete, sent off to new owner

Vampire Princess Miyu: 100% complete, sent off to new owner


Generic Musketeer: about 80% complete. Puffy shirt needs to be made, and a closure sewn to the cape.






For those curious about what patterns I used:
Harley Quinn: pattern from Holly Messinger on etsy (HIGHLY recommended. She also makes the costumes if you aren't handy with a machine). I tweaked the sizing to better fit me (more room in the bust, and longer legs), and for the booties I traced the sole of a pair of ballet flats and made shoe covers instead of slippers. Gloves/mask/BANG gun were purchased.
Joker: Shirt and Vest were McCalls 2447, no major changes (sleeves lengthened), good patterns. Tailcoat was McCalls 6143. This will take major alterations to make it acceptable. The sleeves and midsection will need to be lengthened. I made the lapels wider, changed the bottom front edge to be slightly pointed, and reshaped the tails. The pattern doesn't include a lining (basic costume coat) so one will need to be added. I also added interior zip pockets. Trousers were McCalls 4745, overall good pattern, uses a button fly instead of a zipper. I had to take in the waist A LOT (he's super skinny) and lengthen the legs. I also added side seam pockets and back welt pockets, and lined them fully.
Robin: The green shirt was made using Kwik Sew 3029, just had to lengthen it, very simple. The trunks (briefs) were Butterick 6377, an out of print Batman pattern. I was originally going to make the shirt and trunks a bodysuit, but realized separate pieces would make bathroom breaks easier. The red tunic was drafted using a tutorial I can no longer find (sadkitty) for drafting renaissance doublets. Pretty much they have you put the dressform or human into an old button up shirt and pin it all over until it fits like you want. Then cut off the excess and make a pattern from it. I'll update this if I can find the link later. The cape was also Butterick 6377 but with the points cut off and the from pieces cut twice to create a facing. I also made a collar from McCalls 2447 for the neck of the cape. The belt was just a long strip of fabric cut to the right length, closed with velcro. I painted craft foam (the 8x12" sheets) with gold paint for the buckle and details, then just sewed them on by hand.
Ivy: The bodysuit is Kwik Sew 3445. The sleeves are solid beige rather than having the glove look. Corset was Laughing Moon 101. This is an excellent corset pattern. No changes were needed, but I used a zipper down the front for easier dressing. For the gloves I used Butterick 5370 view D (left off the extensions).
Alice: Shirt was Butterick 5525 view D. I folded out some of the fullness of the sleeves on the pattern, then added a couple inches of length so they'd be just below elbow. I ended up lining the bodice of the shirt because my fabric was a bit sheer. The skirt was Butterick 3134 view B. I used the waist yoke from New Look 6873 and added a pocket on the right seam (the zipper was on the left). A basic petticoat was made by gathering rectangles of fabric together. Example: The first rectangle is on the top, 2x as long as the waist measurement (say 29" x 2 = 58" long), the rectangle below it is 2x that length (58x2=116"), and the third/bottom rectangle is 2x that length (116x2=232"). Add an elastic waistband and you've got a petticoat! The apron was drafted by hand, just sketching out the basic front shape until it looked right and adding the long ties and the front 'skirt' piece.
Miyu: The only pattern used for this was Simplicity 4080. I cut the length of the kimono body down to about 40". On the side that would be infront, I extended the neck band to the hem to match the character. The sleeves were shortened, and elastic added to the edge to be just above elbow length. A separate neckband was sewn to the inside to simulate the red under kimono Miyu wears. I left out the boning for the obi (and only used the obi piece, none of the support or bow or drape) and instead interlined it with fleece for some stability. The bow was hand drawn, and loosely made following this tutorial to get it to stay upright. I used two layers of craft interfacing basted to the inside back of the bow, and sewed four snaps to hold it to the obi.
Musketeer: My younger brother decided last minute that he wanted this costume. Thankfully it's a quick one. I'm completely using Simplicity 2334. He chose fabrics to match the one with the red cape, except his shirt will be white, and the cross gold. It's a decent pattern for a quick cape/tunic/puffy shirt. If you can grab it on 99cent special I would. He bought a hat and sword. The only changes I made were to leave off the trim on the cape and tunic, and the lace on the shirt. And to add four inches total to the width of the tunic. My top stitching and hemming were done with gold thread on the tunic for a little contrast.

Sunday, October 2, 2011

So much sewing....

There's little bits of thread over my entire house now. I've been sewing in the living room, the kitchen, the dining room, even at my day job. :)

Robin is 99.9% finished. I've got to fudge up some sort of adornment to look like the belt buckle. (It Velcros in the back.) Deedle opted for me not to make gloves or boot covers. (He may very well change his mind 2 days before halloween.)

Also, I gave my friend Seldous that super-secret project I was working on. It was a classic Joker suit, to match my Harley Quinn. He loved it. I don't have pictures of it on him yet because I left the pants and jacket sleeves unhemmed to make sure they were the right length, but please enjoy these photos of it on my dress-form for now. The coat (tails included), vest, and trousers are all fully lined. The coat has two interior zip pockets. The pants have side-seam pockets and two back welt pockets. I haven't mastered lapped zippers yet so I did a button fly. The shirt cuffs have holes for cuff links (I found a perfect pair online.)

Button up shirt, vest, and tailcoat. There is a pair of matching trousers, but my dress-form doesn't have legs.

Close-up of vest pattern. I thought it was PERFECT for the Joker

Tails.

Closer pic of the front

Now, Ivy. The skater's dress looks much too much like a Tinkerbell dress for my liking, but Momma seemed to like it. I would have made just a leotard, no skirt, no sleeves, but it's a little extra coverage for her.
This is a super unattractive picture. Take my word that it looks much better on her.
 I started on her corset today. Bought green canvas for the mock-up. I'll also use this for the outside of the corset. It will be lined in plain green broadcloth. The first mock-up was a bit too small. The gap between laces was too large, and she was quite squished to get it even that tight. (This will be her first corset. I don't want her to faint.) To adjust, I cut the side panels two sizes larger (from the original 16 to a 20). We haven't tried it on again yet, but it added another three inches so I think we should be good. I will probably use plastic boning, rather than steel, since she is inexperienced in corset-wear and because it's just a costume.
Corset after replacing the three middle panels on each side
The hook and eye closure and lacing strips were generously donated by my very first corset. It had a long life, and no longer fits, so it was sacrificed today. I'll save the lacing strips and front closure to use in future corset mock-ups. They worked very well on this one.
My first corset. A Fredericks of Hollywood 'Dream' corset

The lace trim, lacing strips, front closure and plastic bones were harvested

I'll have pictures of us all wearing our costumes closer to Halloween, promise.