Making Your Own Bra Part 1: Intro and supplies

Greetings!
Back in December 2014, I was desperately looking for a red bra. I didn't think it would be too difficult, there are a handful available in my size, but apparently I'm a shape mis-match for nearly all of them (Custom and Polish bras excluded. I wanted it fast and reasonably priced).
I could have easily dyed a fitting white bra red (Curvy Kate Lola in this instance), but decided instead to take it apart and make a pattern and new bra. That way, next time I want a bra in a color I can't find, I can make and dye it myself, or use whatever lovely fabric I like.
Let me say now, that while I have documented the experiment pretty darn well IMO, this is NOT a tutorial. You should be able to use this as a general guide, but I wouldn't rely on it solely.

So first off,  Is sewing your own bra really that much cheaper than buying them? That depends. Are you a hard to fit size/shape? Are you thrifty, scouring sales and coupons? Do you have fabric sensitivities that prevent you from buying certain bras?
I have spent anywhere from $10 to $80 on bras. If you only intend to make one bra, it will probably cost the same or more than your regular bras. If you intend to make several, it will be more economical, since bras take so little fabric and you can usually cut more than one set from the same piece of fabric.
If you are lucky enough to live near a fabric district or a store stocking lingerie fabrics and supplies, it may cost less than ordering online, since you can buy partial yardage in person and online is usually by the full (sometimes half) yard.
I ordered the majority of my supplies from www.SewSassy.com
What didn't I purchase from sewsassy:

• back closure. etsy ArteCrafts. wanted a heat sealed closure (like on a ready to wear bra) rather than hook and eye tape. These are only available in 2 and (narrow) 3 hook styles. If you want a thicker band, go for the hook and eye tape.
• outer cup fabric. nylon/cotton lace from Jo-Ann fabrics
• foam lining. etsy, seller no longer active. have since purchased more foam from sewsassy (SS has better foam anyway)

Secondly, is it hard? If you've never sewn anything before, you may be biting off a bit much. I'm sure you can manage, but you'll need to go slow and be patient. Even if you've been sewing for years, bras have fiddly bits that can drive anyone crazy. Overall, bra sewing is not difficult, but it can be frustrating.


Here's a basic rundown of what you'd need. Prices and codes are from www.Sewsassy.com
*NAYY, just one of the only one-stop-shops for bra making in the US I know of. www.Sweetcupsbrasupply.com also sells kits and is the US counterpart of Canadian site www.bramakerssupply.com

Bra Supplies for Approximately 3 Bras in 36FF/34G/32GG/30H

Back closure: 1/4 yd hook & eye tape HE952 $2.60
5/8" Strap rings: 1 dozen B970NC-5/8 $1.45
5/8" Strap slides: 1 dozen B967NC-5/8 $1.40
Underwire channeling: 2 yds CH912 $2.50 ($1.25/yd)
3/8" Underarm elastic: 5 yds PE401 $3.00 ($0.60/yd, 5yd min)
1/2" Band elastic: 5 yds PE420 $3.50 ($0.70/yd, 5yd min)
5/8" Strap elastic: 3 yds PE560 $3.00 ($1/yd, 3yd min)
Underwires: Select size based on measurements $3.60 ($1.20/pair)
Poly Laminate Foam (cup lining): 1/2 yd F325 $9.00 ($9/half yard, $17.50/yard)
Band Fabric (powerknit/net): 1 yd TechSheen TechS380 $9.98 (*will make way more than 3 bra bands*)
Shipping $10 USPS Priority (estimate. ships from AL)

Cup Outer Fabric: 1 yard $10 (estimate. will depend on fabric selection at local store)
Bows, ribbons, flowers, other decoration: $1 estimate

Total Cost: $61.03 ($20.34 per bra)

OTHER SUPPLIES:
Fitting bra to take apart, or a pattern (preferably already test-fit)
Paper to make your pattern on. I use large rolls of doctor exam table paper. Regular tissue paper, holiday gift wrap (plain side), paper grocery bags, butcher paper and computer paper will all work but the thinner the better.
Pen, Pencil, Marker
Various sewing supplies (Tape Measure, Pins, Scissors, Sewing Machine, with both universal and ball point needles, Seam ripper...)
Thread (if dying your bra, use cotton thread or a color that will match the finished dye job. If not dying your bra, match or contrast the thread as you please)
Chocolate/Wine/both (optional, highly recommended)

Why I Won't Sew for You

It's been positively forever since I've updated, and I apologize. Life keeps getting in the way. I've been working on some cute things, mostly new summer clothes, and hopefully I'll tell you all about them soon. But first, a small rant.
Generally, I do not sew for others. I make exceptions, small alterations for people I know. And I'm open to making cosplay/halloween costumes. But if you asked me to make you a dress, a new suit, anything of that sort, I'd say no.
There's a variety of reasons. I don't have the time, I underestimate my abilities, I think your idea is boring. I also have trouble knowing what to charge for things. A lot of people think that sewing is cheaper than buying new clothes. Sometimes. But not often. You can go to walmart and buy a sundress for $10. It might last you through the summer before falling apart. But to sew a dress, let's say you get the fabric on sale, plain cotton for $3/yd. A basic a-line might take 3 yards depending on the size. Add $3 for the zipper, $2 for thread, assume the pattern was on sale for $1.99 and you've already spent $15.99 on your dress. That's not bad. And there's a great chance that if the person sewing knows what they're doing, the dress will last for several years (if you don't grow out of it). But labor isn't free. If you are sewing it yourself, you might not factor that in. But if you want me to sew it, it'll cost you.
I sew a lot of my dresses because the quality and perfect fit, and it being something *just right* that I couldn't find in stores, outweighs the extra cost. I'd rather spend say, $100 making four new dresses for myself (materials only) that will last until they don't fit, than to spend $40 on four new dresses I'll have to replace in a few months.

I was recently coerced by my mother and her friend Cherry to sew some dresses. Cherry wanted sundresses, a-line, sleeveless (wide straps), knee length. We went out and bought all the supplies and she said she'd "pay me whatever I needed when I was done."
Yeah. Right.
I've now finished the dresses. I looked online for guidance for pricing. Multiple searches showed that women charge a MINIMUM of $10/hr. Lots charged even more (20-40) and all of that took into consideration that materials were separate. I felt that even though I've got quite a few years under my belt sewing, I'd start at the $10 mark. I considered minimum wage ($7.25) but as someone else stated "minimum wage is for UN-skilled labor. It's what you get paid for flipping burgers." For something anyone can do. Sewing takes skill. You don't just learn it overnight With that information in hand I felt $10/hr was fair.
I'd tracked my time with these dresses. I'd had to prewash and iron fabric, trace and alter the pattern, make two muslins (two different dress patterns were being used), and then sew the actual dresses. All of this took my just over 14 hours, totaling $140.
She was not thrilled. I haven't spoken to her yet, just mother has. This woman, however, seems to think that $5/hr is *very reasonable*
If you haven't guessed yet, she doesn't sew.
I'm thinking just to get her out of my hair, I'll settle for minimum wage on this one, it'll come out to about $100, but I will NOT be sewing for her anymore, and I'll make sure she knows that.
Ladies and gents, PLEASE be firm with your pricing. Do not underestimate your skills. Trust me, you're worth it. If sewing were so simple, everyone would be doing it. And you can see, they aren't.

I'll leave you with this. In my pricing research, a woman said that on her door sign with hours and such, it has a note at the bottom. "If you do not sew and you insist on telling me how simple a project is going to be, there will be no charge for that item.  You can take it home and do it yourself."
I fully agree.

How I Research my Costumes

A good friend of mine recently asked me to help her make a costume for Zenkaikon. She had already chosen her character, Anya.

When I pick my costumes, I spend hours, or days, researching everything that's needed. Here's the advice I gave her.

Step 1: Find your costume (check!)
Step 2: google the **** out of that *****. Check everything. Look at ones other people made. Check for possible tutorials or guides. See if anyone said what patterns they used or how they drafted them. SAVE EVERYTHING
Step 3: Find as many pictures as you can from every angle. Since it's a cartoon and not a "real" dress, it'll be harder to make screen accurate. Cartoons generally don't use buttons or zippers to get dressed, they use magic. So if you can't see how it would be possible for a live person to put on, decide how you want that to work. (Zippers can be made "invisible" as long as they are on a seam)
Step 4: Find patterns. Check Simplicity, Butterick, and McCalls websites.
http://butterick.mccall.com/
http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/
http://www.simplicity.com/
In terms of costumes, Vogue is eh. Overpriced for some of the same things as the others, so ignore that brand. Stay away from the "Out of Print" section unless you find one that is EXACTLY right. Then try to get it on eBay, etsy, wherever for cheaper. (Also, remember pattern sizes are not the same as dress sizes. Use the size chart based on measurements) For any of the current patterns, Joanns has sales almost every weekend. All of the brands will be on sale at some point for either 99cents or 1.99 so don't worry when you see the 10-25$ original price.
Step 5: Decide on fabric. Use the information you googled combined with going to a store and touching things to see which will work best. Again, Joanns has sales, and I there are always coupons to be found.
Also, remember we can Frankenstein patterns to an extent. Like, if the body of pattern A is great, but the sleeves on pattern B would work better, we can combine them.

Following those instructions, we did this:

google images: anastasia orphan dress
click first picture. yell at stupid website for not letting me open it.
go back, click 3rd picture. scroll down. make note of basic costume elements. (Baggy, puffy sleeves, contrast cuffs and collar, belt, buttons)
Google images: anastasia anya costume
click 10th picture. oogle pretty costume. email deviantartist about possible pattern help.
Google (not images): anastasia anya costume
click first web link (not images link). scroll down to "wardrobe"
document says "wears a ragged yellow tunic under a green overcoat, along with a newsboy cap and purple scarves and gloves"
mkay. they called it a tunic. that's a start. rather than blindly looking at all the patterns on the sites, let's use that.

go to mccall pattern website, search "tunic"
on the right side it'll say 'narrow by brand' just choose one for now, i chose mccalls. (some of the brands are all owned by the same people so it'll try to search all of them, even though we're on the mccall webpage)
scan the images for ones that look kinda right. I choose to focus on them having a collar and buttons on the front. Open them and compare, eliminating ones that aren't right.
I opened ...
M5967 -the tucks on the front would be a pain to remove and still have it look right. nope.
M6167 - a possibility. view D with different sleeves. using only the bottom half of the collar so it doesnt fold over like normal collars, and shifting the buttons. Don't worry about the scrunchy waist, you'll have a belt over it anyway
M6380 (or "Hey! This is the same as the last one!") - its exactly like the last one, but cheaper. I don't understand but whatever.
M5556 - so far the best. it's got the half collar, the buttons, the length, and the sleeves can be made puffier and a cuff added. But this one is Out of Print. (that just means we cant get it on sale at joanns) We'll leave that one open and check ebay/etsy/whatever to see if it's an acceptable price (in my opinion, $5 or less)

Repeat on the Butterick site (search tunic, preference 'butterick')
B5218 - view B, change collar and shirt buttons, add cuff. bonus: shoulders are 'dropped' (seam isnt right up top, but slouched down like Anya's). a possibility
B4856 - collar wrong, doesnt stand up at all. nope.

Simplicity search:
2365 - those darn tucks on the front. next.
2963 - weird front panel. nope
6076 - front slit is too open, its a cut V instead of just one slit.

SO. after all that. We've nixed all the Simplicities. We're left with
M6380/6167, M5556, and B5218
I really liked 5556, it was the first one I looked at and could see Anya's dress, so I'm going to google it.

Both of the others are current patterns, so they'll be on sale at Joanns for either 1.99 or 99cents at some point. At this point it's upto you. Any of them seem like decent patterns, and they'd all be about the same amount of fiddling to get right.
Oh, and I'll keep an eye on my dA account in case that chick with the awesome Anya costume writes back.

Hope this helped, I know its tricky the first few time. We'll let you know how things go when she decides on a pattern and picks out fabric!

I put the LATE in Belated Birthday

My best friend's birthday was October 20th. Back on March 21st I bought a yard of this fabric she sent me a link to. I figured there was plenty of time to make her present, but I didn't want to start too soon in case her measurements changed. So instead, I waited forever. I got her measurements right around her birthday, and completed the present in...January. Yes, I was three months late. She still loves me.

PICTURES! (taken while a pillow was wearing it)  :)

Back Lacing

Corset front. Check out that pattern matching on the center-most panel

 Pattern review can be found here: http://sewing.patternreview.com/review/pattern/71913

Costume Pattern Master List

Pattern Brand codes:
KS: Kwik Sew
S: Simplicity
M: McCalls
B: Butterick
LM: Laughing Moon
BUR: Burda
NL: New Look
V: Vouge
vtg = vintage
oop = out of print
BLUE = a pattern I have used, at least partially 

 Children's Costumes
S3595 sz3-8 Vampire, Witch, Clown, Kitty, Batman, Phantom of the Opera
S5520 sz3-8 Knight, Viking, two princesses
vtg S7730 sz2-4 Minnie Mouse
vtg S8328 sz2-4 Disney Sleeping Beauty and the Three Fairies

General Halloween Costumes
B3906 sz6-10 Barmaid. Very loose-fitting, slightly flared dress, above ankle, has elasticized neckline/sleeves, ruffle and above elbow or long sleeves. Fitted, lined vest has princess seams and purchased lacing. Slightly flared skirt, below mid-calf, has elastic waist
oop B4050 xs-m Very loose-fitting, unlined or lined robe, floor-length has hood and sleeve variations, and decorative clasp. A,D: purchased trim. B,C,D: contrast lining
S2067 (0420) sz6-22 ballerina, devil, super hero & disco corset costumes
S2172 sz6-22 Victorian era inspired coat, skirt and bustier / Steampunk
S2581 all sizes Mens and Womens Victorian coats and hats
S3639 all sizes Child, teen and adult penguin costume
S3847 sz14-22 sock hop/diner girl costume. poodle skirt, blouse, hat, apron
S4083 m-xl Johnny Depp costumes. Coats, Capes, Vests, Dickey and Hat
vtg S5740 sz40-42 unisex clown costumes
S2525 sz6-12 misses cutesy clown, vampire, leprechaun, skeleton.
M5954 (MP306) szs-xl Storybook costumes. Full length dresses A, B, C, D, E have self-lined fitted bodice with princess seams, gathered skirt, back zipper and long, two-piece sleeves; dresses A, C, D, E have purchased trims; dresses A, B have floor length cape with lined hood; dress A cape has contrast hood lining; dress B has hat with contrast sash and contrast skirt front panel; dress C has contrast bodice front, skirt and sleeves; dress D has contrast skirt, appliques and collar; dress E has contrast sleeves, peplum, skirt, collar and appliques; purchased wand.
M3789 s-xl witch and wizard. Robe A or B has front and back gathered into self-lined yokes, long sleeves with overarm darts are gathered into armholes; robe B has a hood; tunic C has front slit, long sleeves, stitched hems and belt; pants D or E have elastic at waist; hat A in three sizes (22"-23"-24" For Misses’, Mens’ and Teen Boys’) (21"-22"-23" For Children’s, Boys’ and Girls’).
M5446 s-xl mens pirate. unlined coat has front hook and eye closure, collar, contrast lapels, mock flaps, long sleeves with contrast cuffs and shaped hemline with center front at mid-knee; pullover top has collar, long sleeves with cuffs, eyelets and lacing for front closure; below hip length vest is lined to edge; pull-on pants have elastic waist casing; single layer sash is narrow hemmed; applique applied to purchased long sleeve t-shirt; coat, top, vest and pants are loose fitting; purchased belt.
M5732 s-xl fairies. Pull-on dresses A, B or jumpsuit C have elasticized neck, sleeves and bodice; jumpsuit C has elasticized lower legs with contrast ruffle; self-lined vest D has purchased ribbon lacing and contrast ruffles; hat E is self-lined and has back elastic; wings F have wire to maintain shape and are attached to vest D with VELCRO®.
oop M5734 s-l unisex devil, disco, cop, elvis. Loose fitting costume has jumpsuit and belt; jumpsuit has front zipper, short or long bell-shaped sleeves with slit, with or without, self- or contrast collar and collar band; self- or contrast belt has VELCRO® closures and with or without buckle; costumes A, B, C, D have self-lined or contrast lined sleeves; costumes A, B have optional embellished buckle with jewel stones; costumes C, D have purchased devil’s horn headband; costume A has contrast godets; costume D has purchased trim; costume E has contrast flaps and shoulder epaulets with button trim.
M6143 s-l Unisex. Uncle Sam, Lady Liberty, Abe Lincoln, George Washington
M5498 s-xl Princess and mermaid. Long dress has semi-fitted lined bodice, contrast peplum with or without button trim; slightly flared or contrast straight skirt, and back zipper closing; costume A has contrast sleeves with elasticized wrist and attached contrast shoulder drape with large button trim; costume B has contrast bodice overlay, armhole ruffles and fish tail; crown has elastic casing, with or without button trim.

Character Costumes
vtg B3048 Disney Jasmine and Aladdin
vtg B4201 Batman
vtg B6377 Batman
S2325 sz6-22 Disney Alice and Red Queen
S2813 sz6-20 Disney Snow White and Cinderella
S3677 sz6-20 Misses Pirate costumes
S4923 l-xl Mens pirate costumes
S4136 sz6-22 Glinda, Dorothy, Wicked Witch (OZ)
S2514 xs-xl Raggedy Anne and Andy
S5386 xs-xl Matrix Coats
S7730 large Minnie Mouse
S8328 petite and medium Disney Sleeping Beauty and Three Fairies 


Historical Costumes
B5370 gloves
B5580 Sword holder, bags, pouch, bracers, shoulder covers and feather pin
B4210 hats
B5233 moccasins and turn-shoes
oop B4315 sz6-12 late-1700s gown. Close-fitting, partially interfaced, lined top has princess seams, contrast front with hook and eye closure, above elbow sleeve with ruffle, attached overskirt and purchased trim. Collar has contrast band. Flared, full length skirt has waistband
oop B3417 sz12-16 Blouse, Sash & Detachable Collar - Loose-fitting blouse has collar, front neck gathers, sleeve variations, button back and purchased trim. A,B: two-piece long sleeves, with inside slits, button/loop and narrow hems. C: ¾ sleeves with upper and lower ruffles. A,C: self-lined sash (shown with view A,C). Detachable collar has bow, knot and ruffles.
B4377 sz6-20 Lined, floor length cape has hood, gathered neckline and decorative closure. Floor length dress has close-fitting, lined, drop, shaped bodice, with princess seams, long sleeves, flared skirt with godets and back zipper closing. Purchased trim
B4954 sz8-22 Early 20th Century Jacket A: lined to edge with contrast lining, has princess seams, back pleat underlay, gathered sleeves, stand up collar and purchased trim. Skirt B: back zipper, full gathers and waistband. Skirt C: front and back darts, back zipper, waistband, flare bottom with a slight train and ribbon trim.
B5008 s-l poet shirt. Loose-fitting shirt has collar, long sleeves with cuffs, tie ends and narrow hem. B: neck and sleeve ruffles. C: sleeve ruffles. D: front flounce and sleeve ruffles. Purchased bottoms.
B5440 sz14-20 renaissance/queen. Close-fitting, lined, partially interfaced top has princess seams, upper and lower sleeves, tabs, trim variations and laced back closing. Neck band and detachable wrist bands. Skirt has pleats, contrast front, trim and laced back closing
oop B6195 sz6-16  close-fitting, lined dress, floor length has shaped front, above elbow sleeves with elastic, dropped waist bodice with princess seams, back zipper, purchased petticoat, trim, flowers for A and Ribbon for B
S2589 sz8-16 Tudor Gown. Lady Jane Seymour
S2621 sz8-16 Tudor undergarments. Shift, bum-roll, corset, farthingale
S3782 sz6-12 two Elizabethan gowns
S4059 xs-xl Men's Renaissanc. Two doublets, hat, shirt, pants
oop S4078 sz14-20 Two piece gowns have bodice with large puffed sleeves, with optional shoulder ruffles and front bodice drape, princess seams, and hem ending in point. Also includes pattern for flared skirt, and petticoat with hem ruffle.
S4092 sz6-12 18th Century gown
oop S8881 sz6-12 "Shakespeare in Love" gown, overskirt, underskirt, bodice, farthingale, bum roll, oversleeves and partlet.
oop M4695 sz34-40 mens Renaissance doublets
M4745 s-3x Civil war. Fitted, lined coats A, B have slits, buttons and deep pleats at back, roll back shoulder seams, two-piece long sleeves with buttons, front button closures and stand-up collar; single-breasted coat A is upper thigh length; double-breasted frock coat B is above knee length; trousers C, D have split waistband, tab, buckle at back and button fly closure; trousers D have purchased twill tape or military braid at side seams; shown with purchased hat and belt
M4861 sz6-12 Close fitting, fully interfaced, boned corsets are reversible with ribbon lacing and purchased eyelets for fit adjustment and finished with bias binding; corset B has waist tabs.
oop M4889 sz6-12 Dress is floor length, has close-fitting lined bodice, raised waist, two-piece contrast sleeves, contrast oversleeves and back eyelets with cording

Pattern Master List

Trying to keep up with my resolutions, I started cleaning out my room. This meant putting all my pattern pieces back in their proper envelopes and creating a master list. I'll add the website's description of each pattern, unless it doesn't have one (then I'll make up my own). Ones in BLUE are noted as patterns I have used (at least partially, I have a habit of Frankenstein-ing patterns). Costumes will be in a separate post.

Pattern Brand codes:
KS: Kwik Sew
S: Simplicity
M: McCalls
B: Butterick
LM: Laughing Moon
BUR: Burda
NL: New Look
V: Vouge
vtg = vintage
oop = out of print

Lingerie & Misses Active Wear
KS3445 xs-xl The Misses' leotards with circular skirt have a neckline and leg openings finished with elastic. View A has long sleeves with finger loops, and the upper sleeves and yoke are from a contrast fabric. View B has a yoke from a contrast fabric, and is sleeveless with elastic at the armhole edges.
vtg KS201 sz4-6 Ladies Panties
(missing!) LM100 sz6-26 Two Victorian Corsets, Chemise and Drawers c.1837- 1899
M3566 sz6-10 Top A or C has neck strap; top B is strapless; top D has center front drawstring that ties around neck; top E has shoulder straps, lower drawstring that ties in back and optional padding; bottom F has elastic at waist, optional contrast belt and carriers; bottom G has elasticized leg openings; skirt style cover-up H has elastic at waist and drawstring tie on one side.
V7837 xs-m Camisole, top and gown are semi-fitted. A: Shaped hemline and back ribbon bow. B: Side slits. C: Lower calf. Semi-fitted, pull- on shorts are high-thigh cut. Loose-fitting, lower calf or full length pants have elasticized waist. Fitted, bias teddy has snap crotch closing. All have purchased trim. Non-skid slippers have elasticized top and ribbon bow.

Sets/Sportswear
vtg B4085 Misses Jacket, Camisole, Skirt & Pans
S3688 sz10-18 Misses or Plus Size Blouse, Skirt, Pants & Lined Jacket: Retro 1940's
S2154 sz16-24 Misses' & Miss petite 1960’s retro style blouse, skirt, jacket and knit cardigan sewing pattern.

Bottoms
B5466 sz8-24 Semi-fitted, straight skirts A, B, C, D, E, above mid-knee, have back zipper closure. A, B, C, E: darts. B, C: waistband. C: self-belt. D: princess seams. D, E: raised waist. E: back princess seams.
B3134 sz14-18 A-line or flared skirt, below mid-knee or lower calf, has waistband and side zipper. A: fitted. A,B: side front/side back seam variations.
NL6873 sz8-18 Misses Skirts, Pants and Shorts

Tops
S2255 sz6-14 Misses' tunic or shirt with sleeve variations
S2446 sz6-14 Misses'/Miss Petite lined jacket sewing pattern with individual pattern pieces for A, B, C cup sizes.
S2447 sz6-14 Misses' Shirt sewing pattern in two lengths with front collar and sleeve variations.
S1942 sz12-20 Misses' coat, jacket and cape in two lengths with front variations sewing pattern
oop M5884 sz14-20 Loose fitted, pullover blouses A, B, C, D have self or contrast collar with tie ends, sleeveless or sleeves and stitched hem; blouse B has short sleeves with stay; blouse C has contrast collar and tie ends, below elbow sleeves with contrast cuffs; blouse D has long sleeves with placket opening and buttoned cuffs.
B5525 sz14-20 Close-fitting, pullover tops A, B, C, D, E have neckline variations, long or below elbow length sleeves and stitched hems. A: contrast sleeves. A, B, C: raglan sleeves. D: pleated sleeve cap. E: stitched, pleated and gathered sleeve cap

Dresses & Jumpsuits
M444 sz8-14 Dress has fitted bodice with halter bands, button closure and back straps, very loose fitting skirt with back zipper, length is below mid-knee or above ankle; view B has contrasting bands, straps and binding; view C has purchased optional trim.
M5094 sz12-18 Dress is below mid-knee with lined bodice and midriff, gathered front, flared skirt, back zipper and shoulder strap variations; dress A is completely lined; dress B has purchased trim; dress D has self tie; dress E has ribbon trim; dress F has contrast shoulder straps and back.
oop M5095 sz12-18 Six princess-seamed sundresses with strap or halter and circle or gathered skirt options.
M5800 sz4-12 Lined dresses A, B, mid-knee have fitted bodice with princess seams and neckline variations, flared skirt and back zipper closure; dress A has purchased belt; dress B has underdress and self-fabric sash.
oop M5804 sz4-12 Hillary Duff: Lined dresses have bodice with front gathers, midriff, flared skirt and back zipper.
M5972 sz6-14 Fitted dresses A, B, C with lined bodice, darts, neckline variations, waistline seam, back slit opening, side zipper closing and above mid-knee length; purchased belt or ribbon and flower pin
M6083 sz4-12 Jumpsuits A, B, C, D, E have side front pockets, elastic casings and stitched hem; jumpsuit B has shoulder straps; jumpsuit C has sash; jumpsuits D, E have bodice with gathered shoulders, narrow hemmed armholes; jumpsuits A, D are thigh length; jumpsuit B above ankle length; jumpsuits C, E are floor length; optional purchased belt.
M6331 sz12-18 Romper and dresses. Fitted, self-faced bodice. A/B, C, D cup sizes
M6350 sz14-20 Lined dress in two lengths. Close-fitting bodice has boning. A/B, C, D cup sizes
S3673 sz6-14 Misses/Miss Petite 1950's Retro Dress or Jumper. Wiggle skirt and A-line
oop S7072 sz6-12 Design Your Own. 8 dresses with skirt and sleeve variations
vtg S9858 sz31 dress with contrasting flared skirt stitched to bodice at normal waistline has back zipper, stand up collar and purchased belt. V1 with long set-in sleeves has lined bodice when bodice is made of lace. V2 has short set-in sleeves. V3 is sleeveless.Purchased Belt
B5032 sz6-12 Lined to edge capelet, darted at shoulders, collar and button closure. Fitted dress, darted bodice, waistline seam, square faced neckline, pleated skirt front with back zipper closure and back slit. Gather waistline overskirt, contrast hem band with back zipper and button closures. Cummerbund sash with front tucks and gathered drape. Belt with purchased buckle.
B5209 sz6-12 Halter or cap sleeve dress, below mid-knee length, has side zipper, fitted self-lined bodice and flared, gathered skirt.
B6582 sz6-10 Semi-fitted dress, mid-calf has gathered shoulders and back zipper. A: attached bow. A,B: straight, back vent. C: flared, belt. Purchased petticoat and belt-kit.
B5603 sz14-20 Fitted dresses A, B, C with flared skirt, below mid-knee, have lined bodice, princess seams and side zipper. A: bateau neckline with band and bow at upper and lower bodice edges. B: tie wrapped around each shoulder and knotted forms bow. C: bodice crosses at front and back. Purchased petticoat.
B5605 sz16-22 Mid-calf dresses A, B, C have close-fitting, self-lined bodice with side front and back seams, flared skirt with side pockets, back pleats and zipper. A: below-elbow sleeves. A, B: bodice back extends into tie ends. B, C: short sleeves. C: bodice back extends into band with button and buttonhole. Purchased petticoat.
B5559 sz14-20 Close-fitting, above mid-knee, pullover dresses A, B have front and back darts and outside stitched tucks. A: above elbow length sleeves. B: sleeveless
B5708 sz14-22 Dress has close-fitting, bias, self-lined bodice/midriff, skirt front and back cut-in-one, invisible side zipper and baby narrow hem. Bodice extends into tie ends (shown tied multiple ways). Purchased petticoat.
NL6244 sz8-18 Misses Dress and Slip Dress
V2902 sz12-16 Lined dress, below mid-calf length, has fitted bodice, circular skirt, side zipper, inside belt and contrast band extending into shoulder straps. A: ribbon belt with purchased decorative pin. B: contrast hem band.
V1104 sz14-20 Lined dresses A, B, fitted through bust area have princess seams, contrast neck and lower flounce, straps and loop closure, sash with thread loops.


Special Occasion
S2639 sz12-20 Misses Dress or Gown Laura Lynn Collection
B4731 sz6-12 Lined shrug has short or long sleeves. Shrug A: front button and loop closure. Fitted, lined, slightly flared dress, evening or floor-length has boned foundation and back zipper closure. Dress D: flounce and shaped hem (lower calf length at front and floor length at back).
B5731 (BP249) sz6-20 Lined dress has raised neckline, close-fitting, underlined bodice and under bodice, boned under bodice, underlay, pleated skirt with side front seams and back zipper, button/loop closing and pleated, underlined bustle. Back and sleeve closings: purchased loops. A/B,C,D Cup sizes.PRINCESS KATE WEDDING GOWN
oop M5319 sz4-12 Lined dresses A, B and C have lapped, gathered bodice, midriff, gathered skirt and back zipper; dress A has shoulder straps and contrast midriff; dress B has draped midriff and sheer contrast; dress C has pleated halter bodice, back elastic, draped midriff and optional decorative pin; dress length is 2" below mid-knee.
M5806 sz4-12 Knee or floor length lined dresses have back zipper closure; package features interchangeable components to create your own design; choices include four bodices, two midriffs, gathered short or long skirt and optional fabric flowers; included in package are tips for embellishing your finished dress
V8358 sz4-10 Dress is floor length, pullover, A-line with front darts and gathered straps crisscrossed at back. Back side is cut fuller.
V1108 sz12-18 Lined, straight, fitted dress, above mid-knee length, has self-fabric piping at neckline, invisible zipper at right side with hook and eye strap opening. Below hip length foundation has boning. Front and back are pleated into left side seam, self-fabric bow at left side front.
V1196 sz14-20 Semi-fitted, mid-calf length, lined dress has partially attached contrast bow, front empire waistline, darts, cap sleeves, bra cups, back princess darts, invisible zipper and contrast back flounce extending to front
V2810 sz6-10 Lined, fitted top A, B: princess seams, topstitching detail, front hook and eye closure, back eyelet lacing and boning. Long, slim fitting bias skirt C: back zipper, train and no waistband. Long, flared lined skirt D: back zipper and no waistband.
V2880 sz10-14 Lined dress, flared, below mid-knee or floor-length has ruffles (wrong side may show), close-fitting foundation with boning, laced left side panel and right side zipper. B: shaped hemline.


Mens & Kids
M2447 s-l Vest has front welts, back and back belt are cut of lining fabric; shirt with buttoned front has back pleated to yoke forming forward shoulder seams and cuff variations; lined tie in two lengths and bow tie also included
oop M2453 sz42-44 Easy fitting shirt with or without collar has extended shoulders, collar band, front button or snap closing and long sleeves pleased to buttoned cuffs. View D and E have buttoned yokes and have front pockets. View A features optional decorative piping detail
M6098 sz7-10 Sleeveless or short sleeved dress has rounded neckline and back slash with loop and button closure; dress A has a sheer overlay; dress C has appliqué details.
M6273 sz7-14 Lined, above mid-knee dresses A, B, C, D have raised waistline, neckline variations, back zipper and tie ends; dress A has ribbon bows with rose buds; dress B has bodice front ruffles; dress C has front drape with bow and knot, eyelet trim extends below hemline; dress D has gathered cap sleeves, contrast cummerbund and tie ends, purchased flower; dress A, B have flared skirt with petticoat ruffles (finished with double fold bias tape) attached to skirt lining; dresses C, D have gathered skirt.
KS3029 s-xl Men's dance wear. The pull-on close fitting straight leg pants, are designed without side seams and have stitched elastic at the waist. The close fitting, waist length T-shirt has a round neckline finished with a narrow hem and short sleeves. The close fitting leotards have a scoop neckline finished with a narrow hem and the leg openings have stitched elastic. View A has short sleeves, the View B tank style has armholes finished with narrow hems.
KS3344 xs-xl The unisex pullover shirts have extended shoulders and long sleeves. View A has a hood and hemmed bottom edge and sleeves. View B has a neckband, waistband and cuffs from ribbing.
S2479 s-l/s-xl Men's and boys' vest sewing pattern with pocket variations.
S4762 s-l/s-xl Boys' and Men's Vests and Ties
oop S7462 sz8-14 Lined knee length dress with front pleats, princess seamed bodice back, has skirt gathered to back waistline seam, attached petticoat, short puffed sleeves gathered to bands, back tie ends and back zipper. A has purchased lace collar and flower, B has lace trim
oop S7487 sz12-14 Tea length lined dress with full skirt gathered to bodice at waistline seam has back tie ends, and back zipper, short sleeves gathered to bands and attached petticoat with net ruffle. Dress has collar and trim variations. Variations A through E have collar encased in neckline, F has neckline trim. Variations G, H and I have bias bound neckline. Variation E has bias, gathered front sash. Variation I has lace overskirt

Home, Crafts, Accessories
vtg M763 Pig Country Pig Doll Package: Included in this package are patterns for set of pig dolls in three sizes: small - 6 inches long, medium - 9 inches long, and large - 12 inches long.
M5869 Package includes patterns and instructions to make pincushion A − 6¹/2" diameter, contrast center; pincushion B − 6" diameter, contrast ruffle and center; flower C − 5¹/2" diameter; flowers D, H − 7" diameter; flower E − 6¹/2" diameter; flower F, G, I, J, K − 8" diameter; flower L, 10"; flowers D, E, F, G, H, I, L have contrast ruffle; leaf M, 6" long; stem N - ¹/4" x 18" diameter; instructions included for embellishing wall and purchased pillow, bag and cork board with flowers; all measurements are approximated.
M6047 Package includes patterns and instructions for flower A, small 4¹/2" and large 5³/4", contrast petals; flower B, small 4" and large 5"; flowers C, H, small 3", medium 4" and large 5", contrast petals for C; flower D, 2", purchased zipper; flower E, small 3³/4" and large 4¹/2", purchased rick-rack; flower F, small 1³/4" and large 3"; flower G, small 4" and large 5", contrast petals; flower I, small 3", medium 3¹/2" and large 4"; flower J, 5³/4"; all views have contrast backing and optional purchased pin backing; all measurements are approximate.
M6130 Package includes patterns and instructions for unlined shopping bag with front pocket in three sizes; small shopping bag, 8" x 8"; medium shopping bag, 11" x 11"; large shopping bag, 14" x 14"; handle openings are finished with purchased piping or rick-rack or bias tape; measurements are approximate and exclude handles.
S3544 Misses 1950's Retro Aprons
oop S5054 Curtains
oop S5058 Shade A fits window 26” to 36”, uses shade cord, beaded teardrop fringe. Window Treatment B fits window 30” to 42”, has curtain valance, beaded flower fringe with decorative band, double cord shirring tape. Side Drapery Panels B,C. B Beaded Flower fringe with decorative band. C French Gimp. Window Treatment C fits Window 48” to 52”, cone valance and tabs, fusible interfacing, French gimp, beaded lantern fringe. D,E Swag fits window 26” to 48” wide. D beaded fringe. E beaded teardrop fringe.
S2592 Misses Retro Aprons
S1953 Misses' and Child's assorted animal hats, each in three sizes
S2273 Precious patterns baby bibs with trim variation. (Fruit and flowers)
B5474 Package includes patterns and instructions for five aprons A, B, C, D, E in size small (8-10), medium (12-14) and large (16-18). A: purchased contrast bias binding. B: contrast pocket. C: contrast pockets and ruffles. D, E: contrast upper apron. B, C, D, E: contrast waistband and ties.

Happy New Year

It's been quite a while since I last posted. Over the past month I worked on a few Christmas gifts.
Baby Bibs: Simplicity 2273
I made two each of the Peas, Strawberry, Pear, and Apple. The bibs as cut are quite small. I enlarged them to 125% and they're about perfect. Even after the size increase, you can still get two bibs out of the 3/8 yd it suggests (except for the apple, that required some tricky pattern layout work to make it squeeze in). I believe I bought 1 yd of the fleece interfacing (I used sew-in) and it was plenty for all 8 bibs. Relatively easy (some little points and curves to sew and turn) and simply adorable.
Striped Necktie: Simplicity 4762
Anytime I make ties, I gut an old thrift store tie to use the interfacing. Real tie interfacing is hard to find, and expensive. DO NOT use iron on. You may be able to find a suitable sew-in replacement, but it's just as easy to buy a few $1 ties at a thrift store and recycle them. The pattern lists 1 yard of fabric for the mens tie. That's enough for two if you are careful cutting. Also, don't sew the back seam by machine. Please. It won't lay nearly as nice as if you take the time to press and slip-stitch it, catching the interfacing to keep it in place. Not difficult, but takes patience
Vintage Apron: Butterick 5474
I made version E for another vintage enthusiast. It's simple and adorable. I added a pocket to the outer apron panel, and a contrast ruffle to the top of the pocket. Her name was stitched on the pocket using my lovely new Vintage Singer Monogrammer. :)

Unfortunately, I suck at remembering to take pictures so you'll just have to take my word that they turned out cute.

:) IN OTHER NEWS...
New Year, New goals.
This year I'm going to try really hard to keep my resolutions
1) Spend less money, and keep track of where it's going
2) Get healthier
3) Use up/clear out my stash of fabric, and organize my sewing collection

Wish me luck :-P